Jock Safari Lodge keeps this story alive with all its historic dramas and heroes and this is where we spent the next 5 days with some amazing experiences. I will take you through our journeys with some images.

My first question to the camp’s management was: what specials do you have here ? The answer knocked me off my feet: Wild Dogs. A pack is residing on our concession. I can’t tell you how excited I was. In all the 16 years I have been visiting the bush, I have never seen them. Can you believe it. In the last couple of years I was asked by the rangers: “What do you want to see ?”. My consistent answer: Wild Dog. And here they are !

Wild Dogs

This image shows the interaction between adult and pup, the pup begging for food. I think this is my killer image of the trip. All puppies are looking at mom for food. Image quality is very pleasing, more so because wild dog interactions (as I experienced) are WILD. Try to keep the camera on them !

As mom and the rest of the adults were without food, this was the sign for the hunt. Puppies were reprimanded to stay (note the puppy on its back in the front), as the adults are moving out. Usually back within an hour, with full bellies and offering the stomach contents to the puppies./td>

On the next morning drive we went out into the general park area and we ‘met’ a small family of Ground Hornbills, 4 adults and a juvenile. Ground hornbills are usually confined to national parks and popular believe is that there are only 1500 of these birds left in the world. A very thin line of genetic survival prospects. It is not hard to find these birds, since they are big and obvious. In Kruger Park they are used to car traffic and will allow for some easy closeups.

Ground Hornbill

Click on the following link to hear its foghorn call. [See post to listen to audio]

On day 2 we planned to go out early and drive the entire day, passing and visiting Sabie River again. And where there are lions, there are a lot of cars in Kruger Park. We decided to mingle and be stuck for a while, watching a pride of lion. For a while not much was happening, until this lioness leaped out of her hiding place to chase an impala.

Lioness hunting

The hunt ended without success.

After a much needed lunch and some drinks we continued and could see a larger elephant herd in the distance. The ranger guessed their plan that they would come towards us to cross the road in order to get to a drinking place at the other side of the road. We parked the car and waited. A while not much was going on until the matriarch decided it was time.

Elephant Herd

The matriarch leading the way. And when she moved, everyone follows. A fascinating show.

Adults following gently, the youth is always playing. Here two male boys sparring.

The weather thus far had been overcast: pleasant for temperatures, but missing morning and evening light conditions. This morning, the skies were clear(er), at least the sun was providing for nice light. On a termite hill a family of dwarf mongoose were posing nicely for us.

Dwarf Mongoose

Nice light by sun in the morning is nice, but as the day progresses, midday light will be harsh. In these conditions we came across a family of white rhino, wanting to cross the road. With cars gathering quickly, the family got a little edgy, taking a position in the middle of the road.

White Rhino Family

Game Jam

The following image was created against the sun, trying to create a silhouette image. In post-processing I adapted the sky color from orange to blue and took the light levels to the dark side. It created a nice silhouette of the bird.

Shelley’s Francolin in Backlight

This is how this call sounds. [See post to listen to audio]

When on bush-trips, the viewing highlights are always mornings and late afternoon. Most animals stay low during the day, simply because it is too hot. Birds like the mornings most, then is when you hear and see them the most. In luxury lodges, the time between is a rest period as well, so mostly people lounge around the pool or try to recover from the morning drive taking a siesta. I cannot. I cannot swim or sleep in the bush. My time there is so short, I need to take full advantage. So, in midday period, when in the camp area, I stroll around trying to find birds. On one of my strolls I got to see two birds that are hard to see, hard to photograph.

Bennett’s Woodpecker

Hand-holding, knee-supporting my lens! The call can be heard to click here. [See post to listen to audio]

Greyheaded Bushshrike

A very elusive bird. Mostly only heard, hard to see because of its camo-colours. Listen to his call ! [See post to listen to audio]

Our last day arrived. Always a sad moment. I wish I could stay forever. On our last drive we saw the Pearl Spotted Owl, busy hunting weaver birds, but during our viewing not successful.

Pearl Spotted Owl

This is how he calls. [See post to listen to audio]

Finally an image of a scene that you can see a lot in Kruger: a Steenbok Klipspringer standing on a rock, viewing and watching the activity down below. Sometimes, when you see these guys climbing the rocks, you get jealous. It looks all so simple and goes so effortlessly.

Rock Sentry

Thank you Jock ! It was great.

More images can be found on Kruger 2009 Gallery.

We choose a period to go as a compromise between holiday availability and the best time of year to see wildlife. September it was. We booked in the southern region of Kruger Park (KNP), as this is the region where one can find most of the animals and concentration of animals is the highest. The first 5 days we stayed in Skukuza, the largest camp, the last 5 days in Jock Safari Lodge (see map). I will try to summarise what we saw in this one blog, it was amazing.

On entry, just a few kilometers from Malelane gate where we entered the park, we saw a large group of vultures feeding on an impala carcass, probably killed my a car or truck, as there were no obvious signs or kill marks. The group of vultures was basically ruled by one very dominant bird, who chased other birds away from the impala.

Cape Vulture

On our first drive the light was dim, with an overcast. Animals and birds showed themselves well, as the temperatures were moderate. One of my favorite birds, for its typical spine chilling sound, a Burchell’s Coucal showed himself well, as he was preparing for the breeding season.

Burchell’s Coucal

Click on the player to hear his call: [See post to listen to audio]

And of course, we saw our first usual suspects.

Our first animals

Burchell’s Zebra

a lone male Elephant Bull, eating while walking

On the second day, I suggested to go and visit the local bird hide at Lake Panic, near Skukuza camp. The hide is placed low over the water’s edge, providing a nice low view over the lake. Crocodiles and Hippo could be just an arm’s length away. It also gives a very intimate view to the birds visiting the lake and of course, waiting for the kingfishers. I was lucky to get close to 2.

Kingfishers

Malachite Kingfisher, click on the player to hear his call: [See post to listen to audio]

Brownhooded Kingfisher, click on the player to hear his call: [See post to listen to audio]

My brother thought that sitting at a hide is too much time lost, asking for too much patience and took the car out to tick the bush animals from his list. Great was my joy when he came back with a very nice image of a juvenile Bateleur Eagle in pleasing late afternoon sunlight.

Bateleur Eagle Juvenile

The next day we drove more up north, in the direction of Tsokwana. This area is known for its larger planes and the number of cats in the area. At one waterhole a couple (male & lioness) were probably enjoying their honeymoon. As we arrived, there was not much going except two lions sleeping. Once in a while, the male lion lifted his head, to check out all the viewing and ravving vehicles.

Male Lion

At the same location, just a view yards away from this couple, a warthog was browsing. He must have had a lot of experience with lions: he looks as if he wasn’t one to mess with and looked like he survived a lot of chases in his life.

Confident Warthog

On our way back to the main resting camp at Skukuza, we made a long detour to visit some of the spectacular viewing points. These high points are located nearer to Lower Sabie where a stunning view over the savanna can be seen at a picnic site.

Lower Sabie Savanna

Photographing at Orpen Dam

The Baboon caught on camera at Orpen Dam

Our last day at Skukuza we spent the morning driving along the Sabie River. It was still at the end of the dry season and many animals congregate near water sources. We saw a great number of animals, before we turned off to head to Jock’s. The most eye-catching ones were a couple of quibling hyenas.

Hyenas

But by far the nicest encounter was with a Leopard. As we drove up down from the Sabie river banks, we could spot this cat lying and resting at the side of the road. We stopped about 100meters ahead, to prepare cameras and be ready for the action. As soon as all preparations were done, we slowly approached and as we came closer he woke up, sat up, gave us a brief glance and walke away, parallel to the road. We followed him for a while, at no more than 10 meters away, but all this time he looked away from us. Not one single time he turned his head to us, just kept walking parallel to the road, the head even turned away from us a little bit. It felt as if this leopard had seen is fill in cars and tourists and was just not in a modelling mood. We worked out a plan: we would just drive 100-200 meters forward until the next slight corner, turn off the engine and wait until he would appear heads on. When we next saw him he crossed the road and walked on the other side !! Anyway, it was a very exciting encounter nonetheless and we managed to get a few nice pictures.

Leopard

Just waking up

Portrait cop, cropped from image below

More images can be found on Kruger 2009 Gallery.

On one of our first game drives we were taken to one of the 6 breeding holding areas, where the different stock and subspecies of Sable were kept. I believe this morning we went to the Common Sable (Hippotragus niger niger) holding area, where the animals get fed with lucerne, a nutricious and popular feeding grass.

The beauty of the Sable is in my opinion well visible in the next image.

Male Sable Antelope

And the female is certainly equally beautiful …

Female Sable Antelope

In between game drives, the lodge provides lots of place to wander around in a safe enclosure from where all the local birdlife can be observed and admired. Even a locust can look beautiful if, as in this case, he was not impressed by my presence and spreads his wings, showing all his colours in full.

Angry Locust

In our week, just before the wet season, 4 particular birds were very dominant and visible. The first was the Masked Weaver, getting ready for the coming breeding season:

Masked Weaver

Followed and harassed by the Diederik Cuckoo, constantly in search of a nest ready to be taken over, to lay her eggs … so typically calling with her ‘die-die-die-derik’.

Diederik Cuckoo

A very clownish display was provided by the Puffback shrike. The male holds a secret layer of feathers on his back, that he will ‘puff’ up in display and to attract or impress a female.

Male Puffback Shrike

In normal display:

Male Puffback Shrike

And the female:

Female Puffback Shrike

Although very abundant and very present, the Forktailed Drongo is an often overlooked and ignored bird (I include myself here). But when caught in proper light, this bird is actually a beautiful animal as well.

Forktailed Drongo

On another morning we went to the holding area for the Roan antelope. The Roan were much less approachable and very cautious of our presence. We were able to get some nice images though.

Roan Antelope

Male Roan

Female Roan

In the general game area, many other species are roaming around. Rhino, Tsesebe, Impala, Leopard and this Ostrich can be found.

Male Ostrich

My for now last image is from this Blacksmith’s Lapwing: sometimes making a lot of fuss about your presence, indicating nest activity.

Blacksmith’s Lapwing

The last evening on the viewing deck we were surprised with a gorgeous sunset and that indicates the end of this log entry.

The End.

See for additional images also: Sable Ranch & Botswana Gallery

Finally, check out Sable Ranch for lodge details and contact information.

The Group

It is always good to have a sundowner.

The Group

View from the bridge over the Luvuvhu River, near Pafuri Wilderness Lodge. Image Properties: Canon 10D, 28mm, 1/180 @ F8, ISO 100, 23-02-2008, 06:45.

On our first afternoon drive we went into the Yellow Fevertree forrest. It felt like driving through a fairy-tale landscape.

Fever Tree Forrest

The Fevertree derived its name from the early settlers of South Africa. As they migrated to the northern regions of South Africa, where the Fevertree is more common, they also entered malaria infested areas. As many settlers attracted malaria, it was soon related to the Fevertree, hence its name. The forrest here was littered with a large number of trees felled by elephants and as they die off, the tree-trunks turn black.

Little Bee-eater

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm with 1.4TC, 1/170 @ F9.1, Av mode, Evaluative Metering, Date/Time 2008 February 22, 16:02:32.

Our tour guide, Callum Sargeant, had an amazing eye for the finest details. As we drove back from our afternoon drive, it was already dark and the only light source we had besides the headlights of the landcruiser, was the searchlight of the tracker. In this light he was able to spot these little guys, green cameleons, just a few centimeters long.

Green Cameleon

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 100-400mm lens @ 400mm, 1/160 @ F5.6, Tv mode, Evaluative Metering, Date/Time 2008 February 22, 18:18:23, Full Flash.

And as we came back into the lodge area, this Wood Owl was watching us walking in.

Wood Owl

EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm, 1/60 @ F4, Av mode, ISO320, Evaluative Metering, Full flash with better beamer, Date/Time 2008 February 22, 20:02:34.

The northern region of Kruger Park is situated above the tropic of capricorn, i.e. is in the tropics. This line is known to be the border for where the Baobab Tree can be seen. These trees can grow to enormous proportions and can be thousands of years old. Curious detail: they die by collapsing under their own weight.

Baobab Tree

EOS-10D, 28mm, 1/160 @ F8, Auto mode, ISO100, Evaluative Metering, Date/Time 23 February 2008 , 08:14:24.

Near our cabin, this African Fish Eagle searched the river for a meal.

African Fish-Eagle

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 700mm, 1/250 @ F13, Tv mode, ISO320, Evaluative Metering, Date/Time 23 February 2008 , 11:44:29.

Close to the end of our afternoon drive, we saw this European Nightjar. The way to positively identify nightjars in South Africa is that the african nightjars will roost on the ground and in trees they will perch perpendicular on a branch. The European Nightjar roosts in trees and will sit along a branch.

European Nightjar

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 100-400mm @ 400mm, 1/125 @ F5.6, Tv mode, ISO200, Evaluative Metering, Full Flash, Date/Time 23 February 2008, 18:13:49.

At the start of the morning drive, in beautiful early morning sun a couple of Redbacked Shrikes were in a very happy mood. Perhaps anticipating the journey back to the northern hemisphere.

Redbacked Shrike

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm + 1.4TC, 1/320 @ F8, Tv mode, ISO400, Evaluative Metering, Date/Time 24 February 2008, 06:02:42.

In the afternoon we were treated with a little excitement as we could hear the call of the Thrush Nightingale. The bird was in low dense bush and was not getting out, despite attempts with iPods and birdsounds to get him out. Poor as proof may be, here is an image as he was best visible.

Thrush Nightingale

Instead, a couple of Woodland Kingfishers were making a lot of noise in a tree just above the Thrush Nightingale.

Woodland Kingfisher

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm + 1.4TC, 1/100 @ F6.3, Av mode, ISO200, Evaluative Metering, Date/Time 24 February 2008, 15:05:21.

As we drove back to camp, we decided to once more make a brief drive over the Luvuvhu bridge, as we had seen the Pel’s Fishing Owl in the morning. As we approached the bridge, our ‘sister’ vehicle (with guide Brett Greenaway) was already at location and they were in close proximity of the Owl, sitting on a branch of a fallen tree, just over the river. I was ill prepared and didn’t allow myself to get the better beamer on, jumped out the vehicle and managed to get 2 images out, this one the best. The owl left in the next seconds.

Pel’s Fishing Owl

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm + 1.4TC, 1/80 @ F5.6, Tv mode, ISO400, Evaluative Metering, Full Flash, Date/Time 24 February 2008, 18:59:38, Hand-held !.

On our last day in Pafuri, we went to an area south of the camp, where there was a huge congregation of Lesser Spotted Eagles. Hundreds of these birds were feasting on the termites, flying out. There were so many of them, we had a contest running who could find the Least Spotted Eagle. I think I won.

Lesser Spotted Eagle

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm + 1.4TC, 1/250@F10, EC+1, Tv mode, ISO200, Evaluative Metering, Fill Flash, Date/Time 25 February 2008, 11:02:20.

Nature has strange artists. A Baobab tree had developed a drawing, carved by elephants and the growing Baobab, it resembled a smoking Indian.

Indian Face

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm + 1.4TC, 1/320 @ F5.6, Tv mode, ISO200, Evaluative Metering, Fill Flash, Date/Time 25 February 2008, 08:02:56.

We were witness to many spectacular nature events in this short period in Pafuri. Termites flying out in their millions, but also an invasion of Armoured Groundcrickets. This European Roller got hold of one, but its armour is really tough. So, smack, toss, smack, get the armour off and eat.

European Roller

Image properties: EOS-1D Mark III, 500mm + 1.4TC, 1/500 @ F5.6, Tv mode, ISO200, Evaluative Metering, Fill Flash, Date/Time 25 February 2008, 08:02:50.

And just when you’re having most fun, it is all over again. A last pose of all of us, kiss, kiss and see you all next time. Love you all !

The End

The Group.